# RV Water Heater Repair and Replacement in Chino > We diagnose no-hot-water faults and repair or replace tank-style and tankless RV water heaters in our Yorba Linda shop, on gas, electric, or both. An RV water heater is a small, hard-working appliance that runs on propane, 120V electric, or both, and it fails in a handful of predictable ways. When you get cold showers, a heater that lights then drops out, or a soaked bay under the unit, OCRV Center diagnoses and repairs it in shop. We work the common Suburban and Atwood tank units and the newer tankless systems, and when a heater is past economical repair we replace it with a unit that fits the bay and your usage. ## No hot water: gas and electric diagnosis No hot water is a symptom, not a diagnosis, so we test the side that failed. On the propane side we check gas pressure, the igniter and electrode gap, the gas valve, and the thermocouple or board, because a heater that clicks but will not stay lit is usually a flame-sense or valve problem rather than the whole unit. On the electric side we test the heating element, thermostat, high-limit reset, and the 120V supply, since a tripped reset or a burned-out element is a quick, real fix. Many coaches run a dual gas-and-electric heater, and owners often only notice when both sides are down. We confirm each path independently so you leave with hot water on the source you actually use, whether that is shore power, propane, or both. - Propane igniter, electrode, thermocouple, and gas valve testing - Electric heating element and thermostat replacement - High-limit (ECO) reset diagnosis and circuit board testing - Dual gas/electric heaters tested on each source separately - Burner tube cleaning and spider/wasp nest removal ## Tank service, leaks, and the anode rod A puddle under the heater is either a fitting, the drain plug, or the tank itself. Suburban steel tanks use a sacrificial anode rod that protects the tank from corrosion, and when that rod is gone the tank corrodes and weeps. We pull and inspect the anode as part of service and replace it on schedule, which is the single cheapest thing you can do to make a steel tank last. Atwood aluminum tanks do not use an anode and need a different approach, and we know which is which. When a tank is actually leaking through the wall, it is replacement time, because there is no safe weld repair on a pressure vessel that holds hot water. We also descale and flush units that have built up sediment, which is what causes that rotten-egg smell and slow recovery. - Anode rod inspection and replacement on Suburban steel tanks - Tank flush and descale to clear sediment and odor - Drain plug, relief valve, and fitting leak repair - Aluminum (Atwood) vs. steel (Suburban) tank-correct service - Tank replacement when the vessel itself leaks ## Tankless upgrades and full replacement When a heater is corroded through, or an owner is tired of running out of hot water mid-shower, we replace it. Tankless units give continuous hot water and free up the small tank, but they need adequate gas flow and the right bay opening, so we confirm fitment and gas supply before quoting a swap rather than after. We are honest about when a like-for-like tank replacement is the smarter spend. Every replacement gets done to fit: we seal the mounting flange against road spray, set the bay door and access, and pressure-test the plumbing connections so the new unit does not leak into the wall it sits in. - Tank-style replacement matched to the existing bay opening - Tankless conversion with gas-supply and fitment verification - Bypass valve and winterization-kit installation - Mounting flange sealing and bay door refit - Plumbing connection pressure test after install ## Frequently asked questions ### My water heater lights but won't stay lit. What's wrong? That is classic flame-sense or gas-valve behavior. The igniter fires but the heater cannot confirm a flame, so it shuts the gas off as a safety. We test the electrode, thermocouple, and valve and correct the actual fault rather than swapping the whole unit. ### Do I really need to replace the anode rod? If you have a Suburban steel tank, yes, and it is the cheapest insurance there is. The rod sacrifices itself so the tank does not corrode. If you have an Atwood aluminum tank, there is no anode and it needs different service. We identify which you have and service it correctly. ### Should I switch to a tankless water heater? Sometimes. Tankless gives continuous hot water, but it needs enough gas flow and the right bay opening, so we verify both before recommending it. For some coaches a straight tank replacement is the better value, and we will tell you which fits your rig. --- Source: https://oc-rv.com/services/water-heater-repair/ OCRV Center, 23281 La Palma Ave, Yorba Linda, CA 92887. Phone (949) 799-3387. In shop only; insurance billed direct.